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Wednesday, February 12

We woke at Carolina Beach to wind and fog but no rain. After coffee and breakfast, we took Coconut for a walk and ran into the couple, Peter and Kathy, on the beautiful Nordic Tug 42 Puffin Joe assisted in docking yesterday. The couple had extensive sailing experience and like us were new to a trawler. They were cruising and didn’t have a plan. Good plan. Once the fog lifted, we decided to move on to Southport. Bigger wind and rains are forecast for Thursday and we’d like to be in a town. We were happy to have Peter’s assistance in making a tricky maneuver getting off the dock in high wind.

Our original thought had been to go to Bald Head Island, which is located on the east side of the Cape Fear River. However, it is small and remote so we thought better of it with the forecast. Apparently, it was the location for filming “Weekend at “Bernie’s”. Maybe we will see if that’s on Netflix! It also has the State’s oldest lighthouse built in 1817.

A first lighthouse was completed in 1794, but was built too close to the shore and succumbed to erosion. Immediately after the lighting of the new lighthouse, Old Baldy Light, it was discovered it was not tall enough or light enough to assist vessels navigating around Frying Pan Shoals. In the mid-1800’s, a light ship was placed on the shoals. Apparently, it broke free several times leaving the shoals without a light or worse, a light in the wrong place.

Bald Head Island is small but also, was involved in two American wars. During the American revolution, it was home to Fort George (British) and during the Civil War it served as Fort Holmes (confederate).

Another interesting point about Bald Head is it’s dangerous shoals. Located at the tip of Cape Fear and residing at the convergence of the Cape Fear River and the Atlantic Gulf Stream, the landmass of Bald Head Island ends, trailing off into 30 miles of treacherous sand bars known as the Frying Pan Shoals. These sand bars seasonally emerge and retreat into the sea. They are rapid and drastic. The area is littered with shipwrecks. Thank you Joe and Wikipedia for that information.

As far back as the 1500’s explorers referred to the area as the “Cape of Feare”.

Decommissioned light house “Old Baldy”

The U.S. Coast Guard Frying Pan Lightship and Frying Pan Shoals Light, circa 1965.

All interesting, so much history, but that’s not where we are at the moment. We are in Southport at the Southport Marina. Huge, modern, 200 slips of beautiful boats. Good choice Joe.

We began a bit of a tour last night on our way to Fishy Fishy Cafe for dinner. A wonderful walk past historic waterfront homes and several live oak trees. Live oaks are amazingly big, beautiful and can live for centuries.

Fishy Fishy from across the small bay.

We had a great time at the Fishy. I had coconut shrimp that were huge and delicious. Have you ever taken home half an appetizer that was your dinner? This place had several outdoor spaces and decks. Great spot.

A bit more scenery from our evening walk.

Now, here’s a head shaker for you…. we are heading South. Right? Yes, I know very slowly… but at dinner, we saw a sunset, a Sunset, over the water instead of the land. Very Odd 😁

Next morning, big wind as predicted. We are really sick of the wind; it was an issue last fall too. Ok, not so bad–we are getting reports of extreme cold back home. Cheryl J. sent a picture of her car’s thermometer -18. Ok, maybe the wind isn’t so bad. It’s sunny and 68.

We received some pictures from Peter and Kathy of our boat leaving the harbor. We were able to return the favor when they cruised by this morning. Peter said they were having a heck of a time against the wind and current. We hope to run into the Puffin crew again.

Captain Joe on the fly bridge – leaving Carolina Beach State Park

We did a walkabout in town. This area is so historic, I could write forever but one interesting feature of this area are the pilots. Pilots of boats. The home pictured below is of Captain Thomas Mann Thompson , One of the most successful of the 77 licensed pilots who guided blockade running steamboats through the Cape Fear Shoals during the Civil War. Pilots at this time could command as much is $3000 in gold per trip. Thompson piloted nine different steamers through the blockade. He made a total of 34 successful runs during these years, more than any other pilot. Following the Civil War, these masters of the Shoals, earned about $200 for taking vessels between the sand bar and port. They continue to be heroes in the eyes of the local population. Several river pilots lived on baldhead island so they could race to reach in-bound ships. To this day, pilots are still active, taking the ships up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington. We saw some of the pilot boats at the dock, along with their special reserved parking spots.

Captain Thomson’s home. Note the cupola & Widow’s walk, very unique

Another charming beach town we are happy to have spent time in. Rich in history, friendly people and wonderful scenery.

Got to love an oyster shell lined driveway

Live oak

Shrimp boat, which may now be stuck up the channel from us!

Last, but not least, a picture of the Frying Pan restaurant. We wonder how many people go there and do not realize the restaurant’s name is not a cutesy cooking term, but named after the long, shifting shoals also nicknamed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic”. From 1994 to 2008 over 130 new shipwrecks have been discovered in the Frying Pan Shoals. Cape Fear indeed!